Broad Stand and other rock scrambles on the Scafell range
Broad Stand:
This route to the summit of Scafell had previously been given the grade of 'Moderate' or even 'grade 3' scramble! This is absolutely NOT the case and thankfully the FRCC (Fell and Rock Climbing Club) have re-graded the route to reflect the serious nature of the terrain, for this is far more than a scramble, this is rock climbing through some insecure territory and must be treated with respect.
Think carefully before attempting this route and please don't attempt to descend it without prior knowledge and a full understanding of what you're getting into.
So now we've established this as a serious place - and likely for some that will be the attraction - let's have a look at what the route entails.
It begins about 25 metres down the East (Eskdale) side of Mickledore. Squeeze through 'Fat mans agony' which is particularly challenging should you be wearing a large rucksack. Once extricated from this chasm, go left on polished holds that lead to a sloping platform, belay here (the corner takes small / medium wires). Tackle the 'crux' left wall via whatever method you see fit - none will be elegant - and pray the good handholds aren't filled with ice cold water! Once above this follow easier terrain to a large open area and belay.
Many will now choose to un-rope as the route becomes a grade 1 scramble, so much easier. Follow ledges and vague paths keeping to the right of Mickledore Chimney and soon enough the summit of Scafell will be reached. On a clear day the views are unsurpassed in all of England.
Rock climbing experience, 30m rope, rack including small & medium wires, and helmet are all recommended for this route.
Cockley Pike Ridge, Ill Crag:
This route is on the Scafell massif rather than on Scafell itself, although it is easy to link up with the main summits.
For anyone staying in the South Lakes (Ambleside / Windermere) area, this makes for a really handy and adventurous day out on the Scafells.
Start in Langdale at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and take the path to Esk Hause, continuing along this path towards Scafell Pike until just beyond a grassy tongue and descend on a vague path next to Calfcove Gill. After a few hundred metres look over to your right and locate a suitable place to join the rocky ridge.
You are now on one of the longest scrambles in the Lake District. The route is mostly obvious and can be varied to give pitches of grade 3 scrambling, but should you be looking for solid grade 1 fun the whole way that's possible too, keep an eye on the easiest way and go for it.
The rock is rough and superb throughout, but do watch out for the odd loose bit! There are a couple of disjointed sections along the way, thankfully these are short lived and worth persevering with as the route as a whole gives a high quality scramble that finishes right on the summit of Ill Crag.
At around 400 metres of height gain this is probably the longest scramble in England, with the added bonus of finishing on a high mountain summit that can offer absolutely gobsmacking views.
If all this isn't enough, why not consider linking this route with either of the other routes mentioned here, or for a very fit & determined team linking all 3 would provide a HUGE day out.
A 30m rope and helmet are useful kit to have for this route.
North West Spur of Esk Pike:
Whilst this isn't quite part of the main Scafell massif, it's pretty close and can form the beginnings of a fine mountaineering day out in the area.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in Langdale follow the Rossett Ghyll path to Angle Tarn, from here take the Ore Gap path for a short way, soon turning right to meet the base of a prominent rocky spur.
Take to the lowest rocks and pick your way as you see fit. Difficulties are easy to avoid, so seek out the steep ground for the most satisfying way to the summit. It's worth taking it slow and making sure not to miss any fun bits on this one, due to the amount of easier terrain nearby it's all too easy to miss out on the fun sections.
Eventually the angle eases, curving onto the summit plateau. The summit lies to the West. From here and depending on time and energy levels you may wish to seek out further scrambles in the area, of which Cockley Pike Ridge on Ill Crag can be well recommended.
But even as a stand alone route, this offers fine scenery on a less trodden path to a beautiful summit, well worth it.
It's worth considering wearing a helmet and if tackling the more difficult sections a 30m rope.
Hire a guide:
For those not wishing to tackle these fine routes solely under their own steam, we can tailor a day of mountain scrambling to suit. Our extensive knowledge of the area enables us to provide you with a first class day out whatever your chosen goal may be. For more technical scrambles our maximum ratio is 2:1
Broad Stand:
This route to the summit of Scafell had previously been given the grade of 'Moderate' or even 'grade 3' scramble! This is absolutely NOT the case and thankfully the FRCC (Fell and Rock Climbing Club) have re-graded the route to reflect the serious nature of the terrain, for this is far more than a scramble, this is rock climbing through some insecure territory and must be treated with respect.
Think carefully before attempting this route and please don't attempt to descend it without prior knowledge and a full understanding of what you're getting into.
So now we've established this as a serious place - and likely for some that will be the attraction - let's have a look at what the route entails.
It begins about 25 metres down the East (Eskdale) side of Mickledore. Squeeze through 'Fat mans agony' which is particularly challenging should you be wearing a large rucksack. Once extricated from this chasm, go left on polished holds that lead to a sloping platform, belay here (the corner takes small / medium wires). Tackle the 'crux' left wall via whatever method you see fit - none will be elegant - and pray the good handholds aren't filled with ice cold water! Once above this follow easier terrain to a large open area and belay.
Many will now choose to un-rope as the route becomes a grade 1 scramble, so much easier. Follow ledges and vague paths keeping to the right of Mickledore Chimney and soon enough the summit of Scafell will be reached. On a clear day the views are unsurpassed in all of England.
Rock climbing experience, 30m rope, rack including small & medium wires, and helmet are all recommended for this route.
Cockley Pike Ridge, Ill Crag:
This route is on the Scafell massif rather than on Scafell itself, although it is easy to link up with the main summits.
For anyone staying in the South Lakes (Ambleside / Windermere) area, this makes for a really handy and adventurous day out on the Scafells.
Start in Langdale at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and take the path to Esk Hause, continuing along this path towards Scafell Pike until just beyond a grassy tongue and descend on a vague path next to Calfcove Gill. After a few hundred metres look over to your right and locate a suitable place to join the rocky ridge.
You are now on one of the longest scrambles in the Lake District. The route is mostly obvious and can be varied to give pitches of grade 3 scrambling, but should you be looking for solid grade 1 fun the whole way that's possible too, keep an eye on the easiest way and go for it.
The rock is rough and superb throughout, but do watch out for the odd loose bit! There are a couple of disjointed sections along the way, thankfully these are short lived and worth persevering with as the route as a whole gives a high quality scramble that finishes right on the summit of Ill Crag.
At around 400 metres of height gain this is probably the longest scramble in England, with the added bonus of finishing on a high mountain summit that can offer absolutely gobsmacking views.
If all this isn't enough, why not consider linking this route with either of the other routes mentioned here, or for a very fit & determined team linking all 3 would provide a HUGE day out.
A 30m rope and helmet are useful kit to have for this route.
North West Spur of Esk Pike:
Whilst this isn't quite part of the main Scafell massif, it's pretty close and can form the beginnings of a fine mountaineering day out in the area.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in Langdale follow the Rossett Ghyll path to Angle Tarn, from here take the Ore Gap path for a short way, soon turning right to meet the base of a prominent rocky spur.
Take to the lowest rocks and pick your way as you see fit. Difficulties are easy to avoid, so seek out the steep ground for the most satisfying way to the summit. It's worth taking it slow and making sure not to miss any fun bits on this one, due to the amount of easier terrain nearby it's all too easy to miss out on the fun sections.
Eventually the angle eases, curving onto the summit plateau. The summit lies to the West. From here and depending on time and energy levels you may wish to seek out further scrambles in the area, of which Cockley Pike Ridge on Ill Crag can be well recommended.
But even as a stand alone route, this offers fine scenery on a less trodden path to a beautiful summit, well worth it.
It's worth considering wearing a helmet and if tackling the more difficult sections a 30m rope.
Hire a guide:
For those not wishing to tackle these fine routes solely under their own steam, we can tailor a day of mountain scrambling to suit. Our extensive knowledge of the area enables us to provide you with a first class day out whatever your chosen goal may be. For more technical scrambles our maximum ratio is 2:1
Looking over Mickledore to Broad Stand and Scafell from Scafell Pike
Enjoyable scrambling high on Broad Stand
Initial section of Cockley Pike Ridge, Ill Crag
